Saudi Life: Guest Post #2 "Avoiding Abaya Meltdowns"

New guest post...
I must say, I remember when I had to buy my first abaya!  I was terrified that the arms were too short or the length would be too short and I get in major trouble.  Wasn't even sure if it could have color at all!  But, well, we've moved on from there...this is a great story about life in the abaya...for the expat that is...

"One very important article of clothing for any female over 11 is the abaya.  I found out the hard way that is is very important to put some thought into acquiring this garment before it is put into use.

My husband purchased a beautiful abaya for me prior to my arrival in KSA.  While I found no fault with the visual appearance of this garment, it was seriously lacking some practical aspects.

First of all, it had snaps, not gripper snaps but little sew-on snaps down the front of the garment.  I discovered that any time I moved those darn snaps were popping open.  Here I am trying to get out of an SUV to go shopping at the Dana Mall and I am compromising my modesty by unwanted snap popping all down the length of my abaya.  My shopping companions wanted to know if I was OK, I told them no, I was suffering from an "abaya meltdown".

To avoid abaya meltdowns it is important to remember a few things when purchasing an abaya.  First of all, make sure that any fasteners are adequate.  Gripper snaps are good, zippers are better, and there are some models that just pull over your head.  No meltdown is possible with that model! Next, make sure that whatever you get is going to be comfortable when worn over your regular clothes.  While most of us don't want to look like we are wearing a Hefty trash bag, you need enough room to be able to move comfortably.  Finally, I found I needed to think ahead about what I was wearing underneath my abaya to make sure moving could be accomplished with a minimum of binding.  Cotton fabrics were less desirable than jersey simply because the jersey clothing items didn't catch under the abaya.

Some ladies have multiple abayas that they use for different events that they go to.  One of my friends has a "dive abaya" that she wears when she goes scuba diving.  She isn't crazy about the fabric, but it is sturdy and it has zippers in the front and in pockets.

Another of my friends simply wears her abaya as a "dress" when the weather is stiflingly hot (and it often is).  I would just make sure the fabric is sufficiently opaque  as to not create a scene anywhere.  I have often contemplated wearing my bathing suit under my abaya but never found an appropriate occasion.  Most of the time during the summer when I had to wear it I would wear a light, sleeveless jersey top and a jersey or chiffon skirt underneath.

Hope this is helpful!  If you live in the Arabian homes you can ask Azam, the bus driver, to take you to "Lady Street" (not the real name!!!!)on Sunday or Tuesday to go abaya shopping.  Many of my friends have more than one and some are really quite beautiful.  Just remember, trying it on can be an issue although my friends and I have gotten shopkeepers to model some for us if we figured he was the appropriate size! "

traditional Saudi abaya's (photo from The Economist)

abaya's found in a shop...lots of variety!  (photo from Susie of Arabia)

Friday in Ikea in Saudi...

A couple of weeks ago we went to Jeddah just to hit up the Ikea there.  It was a Friday...we left that morning and got ourselves to the underground parking at about 4:15pm.  Since it's Friday (holy day), Ikea won't ope until 5pm.  We had a problem with the car that caused it to overheat and spit radiator fluid all over the ground.  (that got us some looks)  Matt headed off to find an auto parts place and left me waiting with the girls for the doors to open.  
Let's just say, I'm never going back to Ikea on a Friday again.  It was chaos.  Pure chaos.  There were so many people...at one point I lost Lily in a sea of black...and about 5 mini heart attacks till I saw a figure draped in black holding her hand and walking her over to me.  How did she know she belonged to me?...yeah, we were one of a handful of families that were westerners.  (that should have been my first clue)  I was near tears when Matt finally showed up.  It was insane trying to get through the store and actually get what you needed.  Top that off with the fact that we were all starving...and the damn restaurant was closed.  It took Matt over a half hour to run downstairs and get 4 little wraps.  In the end, we managed to get what we came for and after a 30 minute wait to check out, we were back on the road. 

everyone waiting patiently to get into Ikea...

The Meat Counter

I've mentioned before that shopping here can be interesting.  Well, nothing shocked me more than when I was at the market and stopped to get some ground meat...and saw THIS staring at me....

It took every ounce of self control to not squeal out loud.  (I really didn't want to freak out my girls.)  Now, I've eaten camel here and its actually very good, but seriously, I don't want to SEE it LOOKING at me!!!  ick ick ick  

Sara said "Is that a camel head mommy?" 

I replied "yep."  

She says "How did it get there?  How did they get it off it's body?  It's not real is it?"

I said "Oh look!  Cookies!"  

A few weeks later I found this behind the counter:

Luckily my girls didn't even see this.  I didn't want to have to explain the goat as well as the camel.  Oh, and the guys behind the counter got a real kick out of me taking pictures and making icky faces.  Thinking the crazy American lady needs to get a life...

Yeah, I think I'll stick to some more vegetarian dishes for the next few weeks. shudder

Somethings fishy...

A couple of Friday's ago we got the idea to head to Old Yanbu to hit up the outdoor market.  Now, let me explain something really well here...this is in NO WAY like the cute little farmers markets I used to see and shop at in Cali...(or most American cities for that matter)  This baby was set up on a side street...cars parked along the road...kids running around, men everywhere, 3 ladies (oh, yeah, that would be me and my girls...yep, the only women there..oh joy).  You'd think by now I'd be used to being stared at...um, no.

Anyway...back on track...this was just a park you truck, unload, and sit and hope someone stops by.  No pretense, no bragging they had the best stuff, not even much variations in prices.  Mostly veggies, a lot of spices in huge sacks, some trucks selling odds and ends (literally...bits of a bike, a pair of shoes, etc)

I wanted to take photos so bad, but there was no way I was pulling out the camera here.  (therefore, the true focus of this blog is where we went next...)  We ended up with a few nice looking veggies though, then piled back in the car...

Where to next?  Well, we figured we might as well stop by the fish market...see what they had going on.  You could smell the place from about half a mile away.  An extremely unassuming looking building, feral cats wondering around everywhere, and...well I'll be...yep...more men.  Sigh.

At least this time we weren't the only girls present...there were three others! 

Once my nose adjusted to the smell...(I really wanted to be able to plug it with my fingers like Lily was doing, but didn't think that would be looked at approvingly)..I started looking around.  First of all, I have never seen anything like it.  Now, I've been to Pikes Place in Seattle...and this well, this...wasn't that.  But! I have never seen such unique and pretty fish (I promise next time to get way better pix).  There are stalls set up inside for the guys to market the fish.  I couldn't name a single fish, but Matt knew quite a few.  Did spot some killer looking prawns and some nice fresh lobster!  There were shark and octopus too.  The girls had an absolute blast checking out all the fish...running from one little stall to the next.

Off to the side are a bunch of men in yellow with REALLY big knives...ready to hack your newly bought fish into pretty edible fillets (unless of course you want to cook your whole fish).  Watching them clean fish was both fascinating and morbid and the same time.  Scales are flying through the air, knives are chopping off heads, pliers pulling off legs...yeah man, this is quality entertainment here in Saudi!  ;)

Lily really wanted some prawns, so with the batting of a few eyelashes and her crooked smile she had daddy trotting off to get lunch.  Went home and had shrimp scampi...good day.

I managed to take a few pix that day, but just with my iPad (therefore the lousy quality).  So, the next time we went back, I brought along the camera.

This time we were on the hunt for lobster.  We arrived early Friday morning...too early...again, only chicks in the man market...I mean fish market.  We got there in time to see the guys from the stalls all trying to purchase the freshly caught fish from the sea.  My girls were whisked away by a Saudi guy...don't worry, Daddy was right behind them...so they could get an up close look at the buying and selling.  (not that it was some kind of southern auction or anything)  I stood there and tried not to notice all the rest of the men staring at me...

A little later we ended up picking out a beautiful tuna and a HUGE lobster!  Watching the lobster get cleaned about made me lose breakfast (and last nights dinner)...but my girls, well, they just stood there fascinated.  First he hacked off the legs...then the head.  Then well, then he just started pulling stuff apart...ick.  Amazingly my girls weren't bothered and had no issues eating the crustacean they just saw moving a few minutes before.

Again, it's entertainment baby!  LOL

The tuna and the lobster were both delish.  I won't mind going back again...I'll just keep browsing while the hubby gets the fish cleaned.  

                               

Mall Meals

I don't think I've spent as much time in a mall in the last two years as I have in the last two months.  But, with very little options, the mall is THE place to be.  :)  
It's a nice little mall with some decent stores.  Nothing fancy like in Jeddah, but it meets our needs here in Yanbu.
A typical mall morning kinda goes like this:
Call for the taxi for pick up at the house.
Arrive at the mall as soon as the stores open (10am)
Shop, browse, chit chat with friends.
At about quarter till 12 we head for the food court.
Now, I've only tried 3 of the food joints here so far and they have all been good.  (well, McDonald's is always good as far as I'm concerned!)  :)  The Taco Hut and Little Caesars were both really good too.
We get our food and then head to the Family Section to eat.  This is a partitioned off section just for women or men with their wives and/or kids.  All other men/boys eat along the outside of the partitions.  By doing this, the Saudi women are able to remove their veils (if they chose) to eat.  Some don't.  And seriously, it's pretty funny watching them lift the veil and take bites of food or sips of drinks.  I wanted to photo the family section, but I didn't want to offend any of the women...if there's a time when no one is there I'll grab a shot.
We sit and eat during the prayer time...and as mentioned before, the whole mall closes.  
After lunch, we phone our taxi's to pick us up and head home.  (the mall won't open again until 5pm)
Doesn't that just sound like THE most fun!?  :D  


Here are a few photos of some of the fast food places...you might recognize a few!  :)  Oh, and check out the Hashi Burger Meal (aka camel burger)  :)

camel anyone??

us ladies eat behind the white "wall"  :)

Prayer Times...

Okay, so I have been hear for about a month and a half now.  Some things I have adjusted just fine to...others, not as much.  One of those is prayer times.  Now, don't get me wrong, I am more than used to hearing them 5 times a day...the hard part is timing your life around them.
The mall here opens at 10am...and you want to get there right when it opens if you plan to get anything done.  (One morning my friend and I had an issue with the crazy taxi's and didn't get to the mall till nearly quarter till 11)  Now, you may think...what's the big deal??  
Well, the big deal is prayer time.  Around noon everyday the call to prayer begins.  This isn't the actual prayer...it's just the announcement to tell everyone that prayer is going to start soon...so, head to the nearest mosque or get out your prayer blanket or do whatever you need to be ready to pray.  
When the call to prayer starts...everything else stops.  ALL the stores close..yes, Every.Single.One.  They kick you out of the store.  
Okay, so are you with me now?  I only have 2 hours to do any shopping before everything closes...for nearly an hour.  (it reopens for about another hour and then closes again till 4)  You can stay in the mall while prayer is going on...either park your butt on one of the fountains or in the food court.  But, you better make sure you get your food before prayer starts!


Yeah, almost missed out on feeding myself and my kids because of that:
My friend and I were casually shopping around the mall with four kids in tow.  We thought we would pop into the grocery store and pick up a few things before meeting another friend in the food court for lunch.  We kept checking the time to make sure we wouldn't be late and get stuck at prayer time.  
We finish up and start walking to the food court (at the other end of the mall)  My other friend calls to find out where we are...says everything is getting ready to close for prayer!  We panic...and literally start jogging (in abaya's) with the kids through the mall.  I had wanted to try a new place for lunch, but headed right for McDonald's cause I new we could order fast.
We get in the FEMALE line (RIGHT next to the men's line...seriously) and my friend orders first...the guy takes her order and moves on to the men.  So, I wait and watch the clock ticking towards 12.  The guy is totally ignoring me and more men keep rushing up to order food.  I realize that he thinks my friend has ordered for all of us...and just then, the lights shut off.  I panic!!  I have no order and two very hungry kids!  (and, well, I'm hungry too!)  The guys notices my panicked face and calmly says..."Did you want food?"  nah, I just freak out every day at prayer time...YES I want food!
Then the metal shutter starts to go down...my friends son starts crying because he thinks he's not getting any lunch!!!  
Never a dull moment around here.  Yes, we got our food (though my order was wrong) and we sat down (in the family section...which is partitioned off from the rest of the food court) to eat and wait for our husbands to pick us up.  (much safer to have the hubby take us than those nutball taxi drivers)
Yep, just another day in Saudi Arabia.  

Shopping in Saudi

Shopping here is definitely an experience...and one that requires planning to say the least.  Prayer times reek havoc on a ladies shopping day!  There is no such thing as running out really quickly to the store.  You better know when each prayer time is before you head out.
  

My first trip to the store was with Matt (of course, since I can't drive).  We got there during one of the prayers.  One of our grocery stores is located in the mall.  Every single store was closed for prayer.  There were a bunch of people (mostly men) lined up outside the store with carts ready to go.  So we lined up with them and patiently waited...

Read more »